Category: Haute Cuisine (££££)
River Cafe in Hammersmith has been opened in 1987,received a Michelin star in 1988 and has been an institution of the London restaurant scene ever since. A place every serious London foodie should visit at least once I finally made it there for a delightful Sunday lunch on a perfect sunny autumn day. The restaurant is difficult to find with a rather inconspicuous sign which is easy to overlook. If it hadn’t been for Ed Miliband standing in front and welcoming guests for his luncheon (NB:not me) –I would probably still be searching. It is good to know that our politicians appreciate good food,I wonder if this should influence my decision who to vote for?
Back to the River Cafe. As the name promises, it is located close to the shore of the River Thames,overlooking a greener than green lovely garden. I very much liked the atmosphere. It does have a Michelin star yes,but it is devoid of the pretentiousness that is often associated with fine dining restaurants. It is stylish but not over the top and I liked the busy,open kitchen and the big oven. This concept seems to attract a rather mixed crowed –young and elderly couples,families and groups of friends.
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| From The River Cafe |
In addition it needs to be pointed out that they get my award (that I have just introduced) for the most sexy and best dressed waiters and waitresses. Ladies,go their nicely made up otherwise you might not have your partners full attention ( believe me,I speak from my own experience). Unfortunately the presentation of the food was not half as convincing. Don’t get me wrong,it all tasted very good,it just could have looked a bit prettier. Considering their prices you would expect distilled beauty on your plate actually.
I really liked the food but I was not blown away by any of the dishes. But maybe this was this is what River Cafe stands for –solid quality without major experiments and I actually left River Cafe perfectly content.
We started with Insalata di Polpo (13). Perfectly soft and well seasoned octopus generously drizzled with flavoursome high-quality olive oil and potatoes. I really enjoyed it but- you might agree with me –it was just not a very good looking plate of food.
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| From The River Cafe |
The Insalata con Bortolotti (12) was absolutely delicious. The green salad consisted of a myriad of different kinds of fresh leaves and herbs interspersed with the warm beans and tasted heavenly.
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| From The River Cafe |
For the mains we went for one primi and one secondi:
The Tagliarini con Granchio (15) were cooked perfectly al dente. The sauce hat a pleasant spiciness to it which worked well with the sweetness of the crab. Fresh dill nicely complemented this flawless dish.
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| From The River Cafe |
The Branzino al Cartoccio (35) however was horrendously overpriced. It was really nice,but I don’t know how nice food must be to make you feel it is worth 35 pounds? The fish was of very good quality and cooked to perfection,it came on a bed of well-seasoned Swiss chard and fresh porcini. I would have happily paid,let’s say 22 pounds for it. I struggle with the 35 though. And if you say why do you choose such an expensive main,then I have to tell you that there was not a single secondi under 30 pounds!
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| From The River Cafe |
We could not resist ordering the cheese platter (12) with a choice of 3 cheeses (sorry Chocolate Nemesis,next time!). Each of the three cheeses was utterly delicious and the serving was generous,more than enough for 2 people.
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| From The River Cafe |
In summary I should point out that the green light for River Cafe was a tough decision. It is too expensive for what they offer in my opinion.
What tipped it in the end was that you CAN get away with a decently prized meal of very good quality:the starters and primi –even though not cheap –were not outrageous and they have a choice of wines under 20 pounds available.
- Food:7.5/10
- Service:8/10
- Ambiance:7/10
- Value for money: 6.5/10
- Chances of returning:40%
- Verdict:I really enjoyed River Cafe although the pricing seems a bit random and I could not quite see the reasoning behind. go there but choose wisely.
I have heard lots about the River Cafe,but haven’t been myself. Considering your hesitant green light,it may still not be top of my list but I’ll keep it in mind though! (and to dress nice when I go!)
yes you are right,not fully convinced but intriguing enough…and you clearly can’t come straight from bootcamp!
Shelving out 35 quid for Branzino al Cartoccio is indeed expensive. The michelin star has got something to do with it I’m sure. If you are into fish,try the Chilean sea bass at Goldfish City in Bank. It’s going for £18 and is quite good.
That said,the pasta does look like something I want to stuff my face with!
I read (and am now re-reading) your post about Goldfish City,the sea bass looks very good indeed! and such a bargain
I think if River Cafe then only for pasta which seems appropriate value for money.
Went there two weeks ago,always wanted to go and Ruthie did not let us down. It was a Friday night,atmosphere great,not pretentious as some of these places in the west of London and else where can be. Like you Ute,I loved the open kitchen experience,the huge ovens and the station in the middle where all strings come together and the conduction of this restaurant/kitchen/bar all is being orchestrated. The waitresses and waiters are the best looking and dressed I have ever come across. Gorgeous! And all that with Hugh Grant at our neighbour table. So much said,and as for the food –I do agree with you but still would go back anytime as it is special but only if invited –he he
Yes…invited would clearly help
but Hugh Grant! and for me it was only Ed Miliband. Life is unfair sometimes…!
Haven’t been back since they re-opened,but I was always knocked over by the simplicity of the food,so much so that I always begrudged them for charging so much.
But it is a great place to eat. Am going back real soon ….
@Dave yes such a shame it’s so expensive! it otherwise would be a place to go weekly…
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