Humous
Marrakech,the capital of Morocco,is a city full of colour and diversity and surprises are waiting to be discovered behind every corner. Luxurious riads are hidden away behind inconspicuous doors in narrow alleyways an you find basic public hammams next to opulent spas. Locals are carrying their dough to the district oven to be baked into delicious khobz past shops selling sweet moroccan delights. The smoke of charcoal fires is intermixed with the smell of fresh mint as well as the exotic aroma of amber and musk coming from the parfume shops. These pleasant odours almost completely neutralise the pungent stench of decaying fish offal and urine.
Soukh in Marrakech
The art of lighting
Tourists in short skirts and skimpy tops are intermingled with ladies in burkhas and men in traditional gandora. Stalls selling cheap jewelry and souvenirs a la tourist trap are found next to warehouses stocking precious antiquities and carpets. Entries to high end restaurants are almost missed between the street food vendors selling sandwiches filled with eggs and chickpeas,dates,prikly pears and freshly squeezed orange juice.
Central Square in Marrakech
Street Food a la Morocco (which was really delicious but made me very sick. So you might want to avoid Marrakesh street food...)
The Marrakech soukh is a maze and even people supposedly good a orienteering will undoubtedly be lost within minutes of entering this covered market. The more interesting parts of the soukh are the ones that cater for locals,with stalls selling fresh fish,meat and vegetables as well as aromatous herbs and traditional clothes. Then there is the part of the soukh were you have to be resistant to being hassled,vendors trying their utmost to get you into their store and there you are held hostage until you have bought some of the colourful shoes,shiny pottery or fake designer handbags. If you don’t haggle you lose –if you manage to pay half of the asking price you will still have been ripped off but not as badly…
Shoes,shoes and more shoes in Marrakech
Dyes and Fabrics
Do not dismiss the ville nouvelle (new town) because this is were you find interesting stores,cutting edge art and design and sophisticated people that can tell you more about the country than you will ever learn while frantically trying to find your way out of the soukh. In addition it is here were you see the traditional Morrocan culture collide with the new generation of progressive youth.
Barbie in Marrakesh
When you go to Marrakesh you need to stay in one of the beautifully restored riads. These are spectacular residencies,mostly in the middle of the medina,which have been formerly owned by rich Morrocans. A lot of them have been bought by Europeans some decades are ago and have been made into charming boutique hotels with not more than 7 or 8 rooms. With your riad you have your own little paradise in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the old town and you might decide to just stay in and discover Marrakesh some other time. If you reside in a riad in the medina,you will likely have your luggage transported with a donkey cart through a maze of streets so narrow that two donkey carts can’t pass each other.
traffic jam
Here some riads tried and recommended by me:
Riad Noir d’Ivoire
This gorgeous and chic boutique hotel Riad Noir D’Ivoire is the pinnacle of style. There is no sign on the big wooden door indicating that this oriental sanctuary is hidden behind. Everyone with the tiniest interest in design will be in heaven here. Nothing is left to chance and the impeccable taste of the English landlady Jill has resultated in something equally classy and comfortable. You can hang out at the pool outside in the courtyard,have a cup of tea on the open fire or enjoy the hammam and the atmospheric dining hall in the courtyard with a small pool in the middle.
Pool at Riad Noir D'Ivoire
The French/English staff is friendly and eager to help to make your Marrakech experience as broad and catered to your own taste as possible –whether you need recommendations for booking a restaurant,want to do a cooking course or a tour around the medina.
There are 9 rooms,some smaller ones and some suites. We stayed in one of the cheaper room,named Gazelle (probably meaning in this context that you have to have the figure of a gazelle to have enough space) which was,even though beautifully done,really very small and with 180 Euros a night not exactly cheap. If you wanna splash out for a suite –Panthere will set you back 460 Euros. Don’t forget,you only live once!
Courtyard at Riad Noir D'Ivoire
Once major criticism though –everything was perfect but the food. We had dinner at the riad once and it was the worst meal I had in Morocco,utterly bland and indistinct. Also the breakfast is largely uninspired and you would expect a bit more with this grandiose atmosphere. If the owners manage to spread their attention to detail also to the culinary and cocktail side of things,this really would be heaven.
Details:
Contact,31 Derb Jdid Bab Doukkala 44000 Marrakesh,Marrakech,44000
Rooms from 180 to 460 Euros (include breakfast)
Riad Clos des Artes
We actually did not stay at this charming and friendly Riad just South of the Central Square hidden in the possibly darkest side street of the whole country and basically impossible to find,but just dropped by there for dinner. (which by the way was delicious and 25 Euros for 3 courses are real bargain).
The riad is owned by Georgina from Switzerland who is as pretty and charming as her Riad. Her distinct style (she used to be an architect) merges beautifully with the traditional Morrocan design and her warm personality is reflected in the welcoming atmosphere of this lovely boutique hotel. It is about half the price of Noir d’Ivoire and this will be the place I will stay next time I’m visiting Morocco.
Carrot and Ginger Soup with Argan Oil
Details:
Riad Clos des Artes
Riad Zitoune Jdid,Derb Tbib 50
40000 Marrakech-Medina
tel 00212 524 37 51 59
mob 00212 658 360 475
mob 00212 678 760 475
contact@leclosdesarts.com
Rooms are from 95 to 165 Euros,breakfast included
Dar Ayniwen Villa Hotel
Riad Dar Ayniwen is more a villa than an actual riad,but it is perfect if you if you want to have your share of the madness of the Marrakech medina while residing at a generous and relaxed oasis which feels almost as being in the countryside. This 9 room hotel is located in the Palmeraie,about 15 minutes drive from the city centre. Always having to take a taxi would not only be a pain but also expensive,so riad’s chauffeur drives you everywhere you desire and also picks you up again.
Riad Dar Ayniwen
Riad Dar Ayniwen
Riad Dar Ayniwen is a wonderful place to relax,totally secluded from the outside world and I guess that’s why movie stars like it. French actors such as Juliette Binoche,Vincent Cassel and Monia Belluci have stayed there among others. The 2 hectare garden is beautifully maintained with generous swimming pool and an huge collection of technicolor tropical birds.
We stayed in the room Mucha which is bright and nicely furnished and has the big advantage of a humongous and private terrace. On the downside,the private bathroom was across the corridor passing by another room’s door,which was a bit annyoing. We saw some of the rooms downstairs which were very dark,I would avoid those.
our terrace
The continental breakfast was of solid quality and the Morrocan salads that we enjoyed there twice for lunch were exceptional. I so loved the carrots,I think I might have to email them for the recipe actually.
my favourit carrots
Details:
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