MISHKIN’S (Covent Garden)

Menu @Mishkin

Category: Bistro (££)

I absolutely love Spuntino,have enjoyed Da Polpo,feel rather indifferent towards Polpo and haven’t yet been to Polpetto. This,in one sentence,summarises my experience with the restaurants owned by Russell Norman and Richard Beatty,undoubtedly the most interesting and most influential restaurateurs to have appeared in the London gastronomic scene over the past few years.

Mishkin’s,opened in November 2011 in Covent Garden,just next to the highly recommended Opera Tavern, is following the same winning concept: spotless interieur and design (in the case of Mishkin modelled on an Jewish-American diner) –compact menu containing American classics such as mac and cheese,hot dog and sliders with emphasis on food-sharing,cool-nostalgic music and even cooler personnel as well as an atmosphere that seduces you to order cocktails rather than diet coke .

What makes Mishkins unique is that it’s “kind of”a Jewish deli.  ”Kind of”because,as stated on Mishkin’s website,“The boundaries in Mishkin’s origins are as ambiguous as the menu’s influences. Mishkin’s is not Kosher and the dishes are based very loosely on the sort of Jewish comfort food we all love eating.”

While I enjoyed the vibe of the restaurant,I was less convinced by the food.  I have never eaten Jewish food,not the authentic one and not the “kind of”variant.  Out of the 3 dishes we ordered,only one was kind of Jewish,so I don’t dare to make a final judgement about Jewish cuisine in general. Overall I felt that the dishes and the wine at Mishkin’s  were quite pricey –I would prefer smaller portions and cheaper,so easier to try and share dishes that I have never heard of such as knish or latkes.

Pickled Herring and Beets Tartar (7) @Mishkin's

The Pickled Herring and Beets Tartar (7) were nice and I think this dish is probably Jewish-influenced,or am I wrong?  The sweetness of the beetroot and the sour fish offered a pleasant contrast. I can’t say that it blew me away though.

Mac and Cheese @Mishkin's

Mishkin’s certainly knows how to make  Mac and Cheese (9).  If you are short of money you could eat one of these and easily have your nutrition for the day. Rich and cheesy and smooth and buttery and greasy and artery-cloggingly moreish.

All pork Big Apple dog,dragged through the garden (9) @Mishkin's

The final choice was a difficult one –sample one of the Jewish suggestions or to finally try one London’s most famous sausage,the Big Apple Hot Dog.  We decided on the latter (admit it,you would have too!) and went for the pork hot dog  ’dragged through the garden”(9).  I would have called it ‘dragged through the larder’as there was a clear lack of things that you would find in the garden. Yes,it was the best hot dog I ever had…but at the same time I am not terribly keen on sauerkraut,crispy fried onions and pickled jalapenos.

The reason why I was not fully convinced by Mishkin’s was the fact that I was missing vegetables from the menu.  Meat,pickled things and fried stuff,I love them all,but at the same time I need some fresh vegetable-focused dishes or delicious salads for balance,otherwise I am unhappy (unless I am extremely hungover).  While Spuntino undoubtedly does a great balance between these two gastronomical extremes,Mishkin’s is leaning too much towards the hangover cuisine.

Stylish @Mishkins

Mishkins is without doubt a very charming and appealing little restaurant and I have no doubt that it will be equally successful as Spuntino,Polpo and Polpetto.  ”Mishkin’s is about fun as much as it is about food and cocktails and music.”–For me it’s more about fun,music and cocktails than about food,but then again,that’s more than you get at most other places.

• Food: 6/10
• Ambiance: 8/10
• Service: 6/10
• Value for Money:6/10
• Chances of Returning: 15%
• Verdict:Splendid for a boozy night out,the food for me was nothing more than satisfactory.

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